So much has happened since my last post, I don’t even know where to start! The updates will unlikely cover a couple of posts, so I will start with the my amazing albeit whirlwind trip through the Balkans in August. Travelling through an organised tour (https://www.traveltalktours.com/tour/balkan-discovery-19/), I spent 10 days exploring 7 different countries, all while meeting numerous weird and wonderful people along the way. Like I said, it was a whirlwind, but it was eye opening and gave me the opportunity to get a general feel of where I would like to return as a solo traveller.
Throughout the 10 day tour, we heard a lot about the wars that ripped the area apart, as well as the various takeovers over the years that have affected the communities throughout the Balkans. I may touch upon these, however my knowledge and writing is not up to the levels needed to accurately convey what has happened over the years. However what I can say, is that with former Ottoman rule, Yugoslavian history, and ongoing wars, the area is a melting pot of religion and culture, which lends itself to a vast array of mosques, synagogues, cathedrals, and churches, all beautiful and well kept beside the shelled out buildings and war monuments that inhabit the communities.
The trip started with a late night drive to Stanstead airport, a 3 hour journey, to a hotel before my 3am check-in. Arriving in Sofia, Bulgaria, I was met by some other members of my tour, 2 Aussies and a Brit, all living in London and bound to become my friends for the next 10 days (and hopefully longer). Arriving at the hotel, we met our guide and mentor, Bojan, an amazingly soft hearted yet tough Serbian man, who spent the whole tour regaling us with tales of his lovely wife and two daughters.
Following a wonderful evening’s dinner meeting my new travel buddies, and a great sleep, we embarked on the drive across the border to Belgrade, Serbia. We sat at the border for about two and a half hours, sandwiched between busses full of Bosnia students. I had a pleasant time reading and people watching, not chatting but having some much needed alone time. One of our group was pulled aside for additional passport checks, so we waited in no mans land for quite a while, but soon it was done, and we headed onwards. Starting our tour with the history of the Ottoman Empire and Yugoslavia, Bojan provided us with a great view of his home town, including the Fortress (built in 278 BC), overlooking where the Danube and Sava rivers meet. We then proceeded to eat ice cream and explore the Bohemian Quarter.



Moving onwards the following day, we headed to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. One country, two districts, three distinct peoples (Bosnians, Serbians, and Croats), and three presidents. The city was one of my favourites, full of history and culture, and wonderful food! The second city in the world to have full-time electric tram network running through the city (after San Fran), Sarajevo is the site of one of the most famous assassinations in the world, that of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which started World War I, as well as the 1984 Winter Olympics. Unfortunately this was quickly followed by the longest siege of the Bosnian conflict in the mid-90s which left a huge physical and mental scar on the city.



Moving on from Sarajevo, we drove towards Mostar, home of the Stari Most bridge, a UNESCO World heritage spot. Again, we were greeted by war-torn buildings, but it seemed to be slowly healing. We climbed the minaret of Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque to get the best view of the city, and roamed the beautiful streets selling copper and materials. We then ventured towards Kravice Waterfalls to enjoy the unseasonably cooler weather (high 20’s instead of high 30’s) and unwind. Unfortunately the time of year meant that it was packed with people, but it was still a lovely experience.



The next day we headed towards Croatia, and spent the day in Dubrovnik. It was hot, packed, and touristy, and I’m not sure that I will visit again. Home to Kings Landing from Game of Thrones, the views from the walls were pretty cool, but quickly overshone by an afternoon boat trip and swim on Koločep Island accompanied by black squid risotto and good company. Due to the touristy nature of Croatia, we drove back over the border for the night, and stayed in Trebinje, a lovely town in Bosnia and Herzegovina filled with mosques, churches, adn beautifully colourful buildings.





Next stop, Montenegro! Arriving in Kotor, we were very similar views to that of Dubrovnik, minus the people. After a wonderful tour of the walled city, I chose to climb the Old Fort Trail, only 1350 steps to the top. In 30C heat this felt like 5000 but the views from the top were magnificent, and absolutely worth it to anyone wanting to see something other than city walls. Coming back down, we sought shelter from the sun, and proceeded to down copious amounts of water and electrolytes to get through the rest of the day. We ended the day in Budva, the party capital of of the Adriatic coast. I am not one to complain about accommodation, considering that I usually stay in absolute budget backpackers, however this appeared to be halfway between a University Res, and a Stag parties dream, with topless Europeans sleeping in hallways and an all night rave on the beach outside the rooms. At least I can say it was an experience, and as close to an Ibiza party weekend I ever want to come.



The following day saw us sitting in the bus for many, many hours, delayed by forest fires, a crash, and extended border crossings. After many days of socialising and not much sleep, I spent a lot of time reading, napping, and generally just enjoying not being able to do anything – forced rest was probably quite needed. The plan had been to spend some time in Albania, however the roads dictated that we wouldn’t have much more than an hour to have a tour of Tirana, the capital city, before driving straight on to Ohrid, in North Macedonia. Arriving late at night, we had decided to cancel our dinner plans, and go straight to bed, ready for a big day ahead.
The next day we headed out early to St Naum, a beautiful monastery on Lake Ohrid. Founded in 905, it is still an active religious site, adn is surrounded by springs, peacocks, and an abundance of natural beauty. Out tour guide, a professor from the local University, expressed the Macedonian view that no matter what you believe in, as long as you are a good hearted person, you are on the right track, and this was a heart warming message in a land that has been damaged by so much political and religious warring. He stated that the people of North Macedonia were accepting of everyone, and marriage between religion and ethnicities was accepted and encouraged as it has always been. After a wonderful boat trip along the natural springs, and a walk along the lake, we headed back to Ohrid for a city tour, and the drive to Skopje, the capital city.







Arriving in Skopje, we spent a wonderful night at a cultural dinner, being fed copious amounts of meats, vegetable stews, and delicious breads. After a dance and music, we headed back to the hotel for drinks as our last night as a group.
The next day saw us exploring Skopje and taking in the sites of a city that has changed hands many times over. Taken over early on by the Byzantine Empire, it became Serbian, conquered by the Ottoman Turks, then Bulgarian, Yugoslavian, and most recently Macedonian. Home to Mother Teresa, it has had extensive modernization, and is a wonderful city to spend time in. We explored the bazaar, walked up to the Fortress, and admired the myriad of statues and monuments throughout the city.






Finally we said goodbye to some of our group who were heading south to Greece, before driving back over the border to Sofia. Having not spent much time there before we left nine days prior, we enjoyed a final night and a day learning about the city, exploring the underground remnants of ancient cities, and buying some final souvenirs.






All in all the trip was a great success, despite the rush from city to city, and it provided me with much insight into the history of the Balkans. I will definitely be back to explore the areas in my own time, however I now know what to possibly avoid, and where I want to spend more time. I wish I had been able to take in a bit more of the history, however after a few days of constant information my brain was fried, and all I could do was enjoy the scenery. The people I met along the way were wonderful, and I have made friends for life I hope.
In true “me” fashion, I am sitting here writing months after the fact, so I apologise for any misinformation, lack of detail, or general lacklustre in my writing. I’m procrastinating writing reports at work, so this is my escape for a couple hours before I return more pressing issues at hand. Until next time.


















































































































































